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Frame
Gusset
Tire
Initial coat of primer applied - Will coat the bottom and paint when the Axle is on
Closup View of Gusset

The tire I want to use but the bolt pattern is all wrong for the #9 Dexter axle. They dont make it in a 5 5-1/2

Side Frame Plan Underside
Profile of side walls. I'm trying to keep with arcs rather than eliptical to make things easier in construntion.
The frame plan as they exist so far. It's a work in progress and I imagine will change a bit as I go.
In preperation of the axle comming. I wanted to wait but things were starting to rust. I can always sand it off where I need to weld.
clamped stabilizer thumbnail Side Picture of frame with axle installed
I decided to attach the stabilizers to the gusset joints in the back. This gives me adjustment up to 17" from the bottom of the frame. Welded the two stabilizers that go on the back. The axle and wheels are now installed.
Picture of exended stabalizers Picture of axle mounted to frame Picture of complete frame
The frame is a couple inches higher off the ground than I had expected so I had to extend the stabalizers about 4". I cut the leg and added some 1" angle. How I mounted the axle to the frame. Here is the frame just about complete. The next step will be to work on the plywood floor and see how much can be done before the cold really sets in.
Bumpers Side Light Sarah showing off the teardrop
The bunpers have been made and welded on and the LED lights have been installed. Made the brackets for the side lights out of 1" angle iron and welded it to the bottom of the frame. Here's the 1/2 inch plywood (outer skin) thats been joined and cut. I will sandwich 3/4" foam between this and the 1/4" birch inside plywood
clamped framing Picture of framing and insulation Picture of the floor
Sure is taking a bunch of clamps for this step. I'll pick up some more tomorrow so I can get more of this done at once. Here are two walls framed and insulated, just waiting to skin with the 1/4" Baltic Birch inner plywood I have the plywood flooring down awaiting walls and such. It's unfortunate that this is doubling as my work table. It doesn't look nearly this nice now.
Picture of the back end of the wall with 1/4" skin Picture of skinning the front section Picture of the first wall completed
I'm glueing the back half of the first wall. I'm glad I went out and got more clamps, I could have used even more! Here's a picture of the other half of the same wall. I've got the wiring installed for the switches (reading and outside light). Well after two days of work I got the one wall glued together. Doesn't look too bad if I do say so myself.
Picture of glueing the interior skin Picture of wall after applying epoxy Picture of bolt hole being filled
Here I'm glueing the back half on the next wall. The application of epoxy has begun. I decided to do this now while I can keep the wall horizontal. This shows how the bolt holes are being filled in and the bottom of the wall.
Where the walls meet the frame Picture of the walls up Picture of front cabinets
My biggest fear is watter getting in from underneath on these muddy forest roads. I epoxied the gap between the frame and the walls. It made the joint supper strong. It took most of the week end to get walls up byt here they are. The epoxy took quite a while to cure with it getting colder. The front cabinetry is together now. The lower shelf lifts up for access to the lower compartments.
Picture of the inside skin The front view of the interior skin Interior - Fan installed
I've installed the inner 1/8 plywood skin. I will need to work on the cabinetry in the rear of the cabin before I do any more to the head liner. Here's the front view of the inner skin that fits between the shelving and the spars. The interior skin is in place and the fan is roughed in to see how it will look.
Cooler Drawer Interior - Rear Cabinets The outer skin installed
The drawer for the cooler is 36-1/2" x 18" deep. I will epoxy the interior in case the cooler plug leaks. Glueing in the interior skin. You can see my rear cabinets. Thank goodness for molding as I have some pretty good gaps between the cabinets and the roof. This Friday we managed to install the first layer of 1/8 ply to the exterior. I used epoxy on the spars and used finishing nails to hold this layer down.
Gluing together the door Exterior of door Door mounted - view from outside
Starting to put the doors together. After the skins (1/2" outer and 1/4" inner) are glued then I route the window out with a flush cut router bit. Here's the exterior of the first door after the 2nd coat of epoxy.

The door is finally mounted and the locking hardware is installed. The lock is stiff but with any luck will loosen up in time as it's used.

Weather stripping Picture of trailer with doors Skinning the hatch in place
Here's how I did the weather stripping on the door. A 1/2"groove was routed into the frame which presses against the wall for a (hopefully) good seal. Here's what the trailer looks like with the doors on and painted. It almost passed the water test... Only a little water came in (that was with the hose spraying right in at the hinges).

Here's the last layer of 1/8" ply being glued into place.

rear hatch installed left view of hatch Inside back hatch
Hatch installed & Solar panel mounted Another view of the hatch and Panel With the hatch up you can see the inverter, solar panel charge controller, slide out for the cooler and battery.
inside view    
Here's a view of the inside with the cabinet doors mounted